HVAC Register & Supply Locations

Hello. This is my first post. Great forum and I've learned a lot searching and reading. I am working with an HJVAC company to do the complete work, but I am working on some layouts and trying to have some options to minimize tear up to existing duct work.

I have a few specific questions regarding of Supply and Return air locations for a remodel that I have underway. Some pertinent info:

- I am located in Michigan Climate Zone 5
- Forced Air Heating and A/C.
- Those are windows on exterior walls in the image
- Apologies for the rudimentary Sketch-Up plan

1) GREEN Circle: Floor supply register in a bathroom. Should this be moved in to the exterior wall if possible to get it off the floor?

2) RED Circles (Supply's). BLUE Circle (Return). Will the layout of the supply's being on opposite sides of the room and the air return vent being adjacent to the supply wall's be acceptable? Air return (18" x 6").

3) Can the return air route through the airspace of the closet or should it be directly ducted to the actual wall I have shown that actually feeds down to the return ducting?


Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you!

Attached Images

 

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244289-HVAC-Register-amp-Supply-Locations?goto=newpost

Single-Stage to Multi-Stage BTU

Is it ever necessary to increase BTU capacity on a furnace if you are changing from single-stage to multi-stage?

Thank you!

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244288-Single-Stage-to-Multi-Stage-BTU?goto=newpost

Gas furnace shuts off after one day

York Furnace Model P2UHD20N08001A

When the gas furnace was first powered on this winter it did work for a week or so. Then it stopped
... I replaced filter.

The furnace would then power on, good gas cones visible, then shut off after a few minutes
I checked the error codes and 4 flashes said limit switch open.
... I replaced the limit switch with matching size and specs of 175F/145F (OEM Part #S1-2702-316P/A)

The furnace stayed on for about 15 hours with the new limit switch then shut off again.
... I checked the three rollout switches. All had continuity.
... I checked the furnace overflow pipe and the vent. No blockage in either.
... I removed the flame sensor and cleaned it. Reinstalled same flame sensor.

This time the furnace stayed on for about 30 hours before shutting off.
Left it off overnight. Turned back on this morning. Running a few hours so far but all signs point to it shutting off again.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244281-Gas-furnace-shuts-off-after-one-day?goto=newpost

Electric furnace doesn't turn on unless I manually turn on/off manual vent. switch

Hey all,

I have a Stelpro electric furnace, SEF 2021, with a honeywell thermostat.

I have been running into an issue where the thermostat calls for heat, shows "heat on", but the furnace doesn't turn on. The furnace is equipped with manual switch for 'ventillation'. While testing, I just happened to switch the ventillation on for 5 seconds, and then turn it to the off position, and the furnace started working right away and went off at the desired temperature. But the furnace won't turn on when the thermostat calls for heat unless I manually turn on and off the ventilation switch. Any ideas?

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244279-Electric-furnace-doesn-t-turn-on-unless-I-manually-turn-on-off-manual-vent-switch?goto=newpost

Honeywell Water Heater valve problems WV8860C1008

Have a natural gas water heater installed in 05192017. Suddenly (after cleaning out the garage) it started giving me the 7 red flashes on a Honeywell Water Heater valve WV8860C1008. Up to this point was working fine.
So I don't believe it's the flu. It's mounted 24 inches above the floor with external flue throughout the room. Natural Gas in Central CA. (yea I know it's the left coast)
I followed the reset procedures for 10 seconds on the highest setting, then 10 on hot, then 10 on the pilot. Works for about a day.
My question is since it's a 6-year warranty and it has not been 6 years would it make sense to get Rheem to send out a replacement gas value? I don't have a problem paying for a new one if I can get a different model that will last at least another 6 years without the aforementioned problems.

Just don't know what model to purchase. OME is Honeywell Water Heater valve WV8860C1008.

Thanks, I have enough problems with PG& E and solar. This is not something I want to deal with in Perpetuity.
:gah::censored::censored:

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244276-Honeywell-Water-Heater-valve-problems-WV8860C1008?goto=newpost

What is this part of a hydronic boiler called?

Hi! Dealing with a very old boiler system using a gas burner. What are these tubes called? I searched around online but didn't know what to call them. Looking to understand how they work and when/how to adjust them. Thanks!

Jess

Attachment 839628

Attached Images

 

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244254-What-is-this-part-of-a-hydronic-boiler-called?goto=newpost

Wifi Thermostat Compatibility

I have a Goodman GSXC16-4 condenser and a GMVC80 furnace. Are they compatible with a Sensi ST75 wifi thermostat? The C wire is present.

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244253-Wifi-Thermostat-Compatibility?goto=newpost

Lennox G40UH - 48C - 110 - 11 igniter problems

Hello, I am new here and have a few questions about Lennox igniters. I would have asked if I found this information somewhere else or on here. So, I apologize in advance if someone has asked this question, or type of question, and it has been answered. I also understand that the site doesn't do any DIY advice, so I just want to understand the workings of the igniter. Any information is appreciated.

I have a igniter issue that I thought I fixed but apparently, I didn't The old igniter lasted at least 2 winters, my in-laws just purchased the house in 2020, I checked to see if the furnace was working correctly, gas was on, igniter was getting power, 120v, blower was working, etc. After confirming everything was working, the furnace would stay on if I manually lit it. I replaced the igniter with a 41k56 as that is what the mounting bracket held and what was installed. I checked that it was working and all was well. There was one thing that I noticed, the igniter would stay glowing long after the furnace was lit.

They informed me that later that night the furnace stopped working again. I went to check and the igniter was dead. When looking at the two igniters, both are in the attachment/picture, the one on the right is the new igniter and it is white, as if it burned up or was too hot for too long. The left one came out of the furnace. I noticed that whoever installed it, cut the wires instead of using the Molex connectors that are standard on all of the igniters I have seen or researched. Based on what I removed, the left wire coming out of the old igniter would be the hot side and left is the negative/neutral. I installed new Molex connectors to the old wiring.

When researching this furnace and iginters a couple things came up. I obviously removed a 41k56 igniter, or something similar to it. However, the G40UH - 48C - 110 - 11 isn't listed in the compatible furnaces for the 41k56 on technical hot and cold parts, see the attachment for the compatible units. When I went to repairclinic the 19w61 igniter showed to be compatible with this unit.

First question, is the igniter supposed to stay on after the furnace is lit or could this be a control board/flame sensor problem?
Second, is the 41k56 interchangeable with the 19w61 even though they require different mounting brackets? The 41k56 states 80v and the 19w61 states 120v. The reading from the wires is 120v.
Third, does anyone have the wiring diagram or can confirm that the wire farthest from the mounting hole is the positive and the one closest is the neutral?

Thanks for anyone that has read this in it's entirety and I appreciate any all and information that you can or choose to provide.

Attached Images

  

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244249-Lennox-G40UH-48C-110-11-igniter-problems?goto=newpost

Use a 4 speed motor in place of a 3 speed?

I have a weathermaker, 8000, came with a three speed motor. The horsepower., rpm and voltage are the same. Is it possible to wire a four-speed blower motor for a three speed used to be?

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244242-Use-a-4-speed-motor-in-place-of-a-3-speed?goto=newpost

Simple Airflow Question

Hey guys! Quick question. I'm a refrig. mecanic so do have some knowledge.

1400ft2 upstairs and downstairs. Return air in master closet up, using round duct and barely pulls air.

Return air down using 2 joists and closer to indoor unit than the return i'm concerned about upstairs.

Return upstairs is in great room of 1000-1200ft2 with 9-12' ceiling. In a/c it seems to take a long time to condition that huge room, i'm sure partly because more air is being returned by the cooler space downstairs and closer to furnace,

Anyway, if i cut another return in the same double stud cavity upstairs, in the great room, at ceiling height, will i pull MORE air out of that room, even though the duct size hasn't changed?

I'm aware i will pull warmer air as it will be higher up, but what about MORE air?

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244245-Simple-Airflow-Question?goto=newpost

Recomended brands?

Hi, I live in the northeast and have temps anywhere from 0 to 100 through the year. We have a unit in the basement that powers the first floor of the house, and it is a forced air AC and oil powered heating furnace. Both units are shot and we are going to replace the whole thing and convert to gas at the same time. (We also have another gas powered unit in the attic heating and cooling the 2nd floor but that one is working just fine and not going to be replaced). I have an estimate from one HVAC contractor and waiting on a few others to send me their proposals. I like the first contractor so far, but he uses Coleman and they don't really come up as one of the "good" brands when i google around. What brands of this type of equipment have the best reputations? What brands do you think are the best bang for the buck - not necessarily the #1 brand, but the one that is the best yet affordable at the same time?

Thanks

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244243-Recomended-brands?goto=newpost

Average Chilled Water Consumption Rate

Hello! I am new here and was hoping that one of you experts could help me. I spent some time on Google in search of answers but to no avail.

I am new to Austin and I've just moved into a 1,000sq. foot apartment on the 13th floor of a downtown high-rise. I've never encountered an HVAC system that used "Chilled Water" for the A/C system. You can imagine my surprise when I opened my September utility bill from the City of Austin to see $418.90 in total charges, $329.69 of which were from my "Chilled Water Consumption Charge" (the others being Electric Current Charges of $57.75 and Water & Sewer Usage of $31.46).

In Baltimore, the entire 2,450 sq. foot home that I used to live in would average around $200/month in electricity from running the A/C during the Summer months.

I called the City of Austin to question the bill thinking it might of been an error, however they indeed confirmed the bill was correct and they said they saw me running the A/C pretty much every day throughout the month. Now at most I had the A/C on 69-70 degrees while sleeping at night, but most of the time it was only on 72-74 degrees. September is relatively mild weather in Austin. I asked the city representative to email me the data they were looking at (see below).

So my question is - what is the normal/average hourly gallon consumption of a Chilled Water A/C system while running? The monthly data shows me using an average of 3,203 gallons per day, totaling
96,100 gallons over the 30 days in Sept. I do not know enough about Chilled Water Units (and cannot find anything online) to tell me if this sounds normal or if there appears to be an error/malfunction somewhere that is inflating costs.

I would greatly appreciate any sort of answers/insight/etc. that one of you may provide!!

Thank you!

*I found a similar post talking about this but it wouldn't let me post a reply (it also won't let me post a link to it). It was called, "How to calculate chilled water usage".

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source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244219-Average-Chilled-Water-Consumption-Rate?goto=newpost

Rheem Econet

can anybody tell me if the Rheem econet thermostat will work with the following:

RP1536AJ1NA heat pump (non econet)
R802VA075421MSA gas furnace (econet enabled)
RCF3621STAMCA case coil

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244218-Rheem-Econet?goto=newpost

Repair or Replace?

Shortly after buying our house in May 2019, both ancient heat pumps (a 3 ton and a 2 ton) failed within weeks of each other. The home warranty people replaced both condensing units (with low end Goodmans) but we had to pay for new evaporative units to handle the new r410a refrigerant.

We have since had annual checkups and this year the tech found the 3 ton unit low on refrigerant (required 2 lbs added) and an obstruction involving the "piston" in the 2 ton unit. He didn't think there was a leak so we allowed him to add the refrigerant to the 3 ton unit and in the process discovered they use an "installed" cost per pound which seemed really excessive to me. I don't remember that from when I last had refrigerant added to an AC unit but that was over 7 years ago so maybe they've changed from a parts charge plus labor to an "installed" cost. The tech recommended keeping the 2 ton unit shut off until it is repaired. So the 2 ton unit still has a parts warranty but that does not cover refrigerant and the tech says the entire refrigerant charge must be removed and replaced with new in order to fix the obstruction. That means when I look at the calculation Trane suggests to determine repair or replace (age of unit X cost of repair is under(repair) or over (replace) 5K) I probably should consider replacing. And it's this installed cost of refrigerant that is by far the greatest expense of the repair! Anyway, if I get it repaired, I'm wondering if I can expect a similar obstruction failure again or are these just typically one-time flukes? Would replacement have to include the evaporative part again or just the condensor unit? Thanks in advance for any guidance.

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244212-Repair-or-Replace?goto=newpost

Oily residue around line set connection on Fujitsu

Hello, I've noticed there's a film of oily stuff on the bottom of the line set valve cover, and a good amount of it under the flare connection. I ran my finger under the connection and the substance is very sticky.

Do I have a leak or did the contractor go crazy with Nylog and squeezed a whole bottle of it?

The system (3-month-old Fujitsu 24K minisplit) is working and keeping my house at 65 (mid-30s outside). But I've noticed the indoor fan is on high all the time blowing lukewarm air. About 2-3 weeks ago we had a discharge temp error and the contractor came out and found two service adapters that were left on the machine during installation and supposedly added more refrigerant.

Thanks in advance!

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244206-Oily-residue-around-line-set-connection-on-Fujitsu?goto=newpost

Bryant Evolution 288BNV Heat Pump Heating Range

I live in a rural area of SE Minnesota and 2-3 years ago I had a Bryant Evolution 288BNV Heat Pump installed into my home.

The primary reason for install was due to the old mixed system that was in the home when I purchased and the A/C was not working.

During the winter months the homes heat source in this 60's ranch is electric baseboard heat. Recently, I had several of the old baseboard heaters stop working and now facing a challenge to get those replaced as I cannot locate an electrician to come work / replace them.

To make matters worse the original HVAC install company who was not local is not responding to my query as to what range of outdoor temperature I can run the heat pump.

I believe it can only be ran down to 40 degrees F. So looking to this forum if anyone can confirm or advise if it can be ran at a colder out door temp. Right now I do not have any heat in my main kitchen or living room area since the electric baseboards have stopped working.

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244205-Bryant-Evolution-288BNV-Heat-Pump-Heating-Range?goto=newpost

Was this damaged? Someone stepped on it…

So I was looking at my HVAC system and I realized there was a large gap under this line during construction.



At some point, the gap disappeared. Here’s how it looks now.



This piece of copper is underneath.



1. Is it possible for someone to damage this by stepping on it? Or to “pinch” it off so it’s not flowing properly? Or is that copper pretty solid?

2. Is there something an HVAC tech could do or test to ensure it’s working properly?

3. What is this copper tube called?

Thanks!

Attached Images

    

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244190-Was-this-damaged-Someone-stepped-on-it…?goto=newpost

HELP/ADVICE: Spending A Small Fortune on Oil for Steam Heat

Thank you in advance for your advice and suggestions!

I live in a Tudor built in 1929 based in Northern New Jersey. I have an oil steam boiler and radiators for heat (see below "Cooling and Heating Stats" and "Cooling and Heating Diagram" for more details). Last year I used 1,100 gallons of oil while keep the house VERY frigid and my wife wants to move:

• The first floor was 63/64, if we were home, during the day and 56 at night (we used space heaters in the bedrooms).
• We put up a blanket in our family room archway and put a space heater in there on weekends and at night. We kept the heat in the high 50s or 60 when doing this.
• When we set the thermostat to 68 the first floor is 4-6 degrees warmer than the second floor (68 tmp 1st floor, 62 tmp 2nd floor).
• We still used $5,000 worth of oil to “heat” our house last year. If my wife controlled the thermostat, we would have used $15K; the first floor would be 73 degrees, and the second floor would be 67.

My goal is to spend less than $5,000 a year on oil/gas, hopefully, a lot less, and have a warm house where and when I want it to be. Adding 100K BTU natural gas-forced air furnaces to my two central air zones may be the most cost effective way to achieve this goal. Based on my calculations, If I ran zone 1 and 2 for the same number of hours as I ran the steam system last year, I would lower operating costs/fuel by 80%+ per year or $4K (see below Savings Oil Steam vs Forced Air table). Further, I could keep the upstairs warmer when sleeping than downstairs and vice versa during the day, driving more savings. Here are my questions for you:

1. What can I do to make the steam system operating cost (fuel) comparable to a forced air system (oversized furnace, switch to a natural gas furnace, etc.)? (see below "Cooling and Heating Diagram")
2. Assuming #1 is possible, how can I fix the temperature differential and radiators that never turn on? A plumber quoted me $1,000s for rebalancing, is this my only option and it will it actually do anything?
3. Will it cost less than the mid-teens to achieve #1 and #2?
4. Do you think the two zone natural gas-forced air route is a good alternative? Do you agree with my calculations in the Savings Oil Steam vs Forced Air table below?

SAVINGS OIL STEAM VS FORCED AIR:


COOLING AND HEATING STATS:
Steam Heating System

• Heating
• Brand: Weil-Mclain
• Model #: 80 Series 1, #380
• Steam Output: 867 Sq. Ft
• Install Year: 2015
• Fuel: Oil (2.4 Gallons Per Hours)
• Type: Single Pipe
• Flue Type: The flue pipe is metal that enters a masonry flue
• Oil tank location: 275 gallons in basement and above ground; installed 2015

Cooling System

• Zone 1: covers basement and 1st floor with floor registers
• Zone 2: second floor only wit celling registers

COOLING AND HEATING DIAGRAM:

Attached Images

     

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244186-HELP-ADVICE-Spending-A-Small-Fortune-on-Oil-for-Steam-Heat?goto=newpost

Stat recommendation for a new American Standard

I've got a new American Standard S9V2B060U4PSDA coupled with a Honeywell stat. Not happy with the stat (from another post). Any recommendations for a stat that allows for some programming when stage 2 heat comes on? The Honeywell goes to stage 2 immediately after manually setting the stat up even one degree. The dealer told me I shouldn't see stage 2 kick in unless there was a call for 3 or more degrees.

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244184-Stat-recommendation-for-a-new-American-Standard?goto=newpost

Car Wax on Carrier Infinity 24 Heat Pump ?

Thanks in advance from a new member. We have multiple Carrier Infinity units that are two years old. We live along a brackish waterway in Florida.

The HVAC tech was here yesterday for annual maintenance. He tells me:
"You have expensive equipment sitting out there and it is already showing signs of corrosion after 2 years. If you want to protect this equipment, follow this protocol every six months.
1) Buy a pump sprayer from Ace.
2) Use water and dish soap and spray into all of the grates around the unit.
3) Get a sprayable car wax and spray through all grates around each outdoor unit
He says it should take 10 minutes and will extend the life of the equipment.

I found this 2006-era thread entitled "Wax On, Wax Off" from this forum (New members can not post links...) and a few other threads on other forums that mention wax for outdoor heat pump.
The 2006-era thread is recommending Trim Shine, which according to the manufacturer's website is for "unpainted rubber or plastic."

Any thoughts here from the pros? Should I be getting corrosion after two years? Is this "spray and pray" treatment going to help? I've previously used a spray wax from Meguiar's. Any thoughts on something that might be more effective? Spraying through the grates towards the coil frankly seems dubious. Is there a better method? Thanks.

source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/2244180-Car-Wax-on-Carrier-Infinity-24-Heat-Pump?goto=newpost