I'm a homeowner and a DIY person but not trained in HVAC.
Each year when the weather first starts getting cooler and the heater is turned on I have the same problem. The fan is blowing. The thermostat is calling for heat but the vents are blowing cool air only. It never gets warm. The LEDs on the unit flash red four times, pause, then flash eleven times red. They indicate an issue with the inducer limit switch. My HVAC company first simply replaced the limit switch and I was good for a year. When I turned on the heat this year I noticed once again it was blowing cool air but did not seem to ever blow warm air. I checked the LEDs and same pattern as previous Fall.
My HVAC person spent several hours troubleshooting only to leave us with the unit turned off over the first cold weekend while they wait for the limit switch to be available Monday morning. I jumpered the inducer limit switch and run the heater for short bursts just to keep the house temps manageable. I turn off the unit in between bursts.
My HVAC person is questioning the need to replace the limit switch so often and is starting to suspect the length of the PVC pipe that exhausts to the outside. Problem is we've been in this house with the same until for almost seven years and this started happening three years ago. My HVAC person measured the length of the PVC pipe and said it is right at the max length recommended by York.
I spoke to the previous owner, he lives nearby, and he said he did not have issues after purchasing the home (new construction) but the inducer blower motor was replaced right before we bought the house. So my question is...could the original builder/installer have installed a more powerful inducer blower motor to compensate for the length of exhaust pipe? Would that explain why the current after market inducer blower motor maybe has issues? I'm wondering if the exhaust pipe is not being cleared thoroughly and the temperature is getting high enough that it could be causing this behavior.
Total guess. I'm just wondering why the length of exhaust pipe would suddenly become an issue. We are second owners and have not remodeled or altered the heating system.
One last question. My current switch is marked L160-20F but I'm seeing recommended replacements marked differently. Such as L170-40F. Are wider operating temperature range recommended for cases like this?
Long winded I know. Thanks I appreciate any pointers.
Each year when the weather first starts getting cooler and the heater is turned on I have the same problem. The fan is blowing. The thermostat is calling for heat but the vents are blowing cool air only. It never gets warm. The LEDs on the unit flash red four times, pause, then flash eleven times red. They indicate an issue with the inducer limit switch. My HVAC company first simply replaced the limit switch and I was good for a year. When I turned on the heat this year I noticed once again it was blowing cool air but did not seem to ever blow warm air. I checked the LEDs and same pattern as previous Fall.
My HVAC person spent several hours troubleshooting only to leave us with the unit turned off over the first cold weekend while they wait for the limit switch to be available Monday morning. I jumpered the inducer limit switch and run the heater for short bursts just to keep the house temps manageable. I turn off the unit in between bursts.
My HVAC person is questioning the need to replace the limit switch so often and is starting to suspect the length of the PVC pipe that exhausts to the outside. Problem is we've been in this house with the same until for almost seven years and this started happening three years ago. My HVAC person measured the length of the PVC pipe and said it is right at the max length recommended by York.
I spoke to the previous owner, he lives nearby, and he said he did not have issues after purchasing the home (new construction) but the inducer blower motor was replaced right before we bought the house. So my question is...could the original builder/installer have installed a more powerful inducer blower motor to compensate for the length of exhaust pipe? Would that explain why the current after market inducer blower motor maybe has issues? I'm wondering if the exhaust pipe is not being cleared thoroughly and the temperature is getting high enough that it could be causing this behavior.
Total guess. I'm just wondering why the length of exhaust pipe would suddenly become an issue. We are second owners and have not remodeled or altered the heating system.
One last question. My current switch is marked L160-20F but I'm seeing recommended replacements marked differently. Such as L170-40F. Are wider operating temperature range recommended for cases like this?
Long winded I know. Thanks I appreciate any pointers.
source https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?2223517-York-GY9S080C16UP11K-question-Maybe-draft-inducer-related&goto=newpost
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